Friday, August 17, 2007

The Guide To Making Big Money By Screening Your Stocks

Making Big Money By Screening Your Stocks

This report should get your head buzzing
with tons of great ideas for finding profitable stocks
and choosing the right investment companies to work
Let's start with the basics....
When it comes to stock performance and choosing a
great investment, many have looked for the ‘perfect
system’ to screen out and identify the big
opportunities. One dramatic example of how fickle the
market is and how inaccurate some stock analysts are
at predicting stock behavior, was an experiment
someone conducted, having chimpanzees throw darts
at a list of stocks and making a selection for
investment. The chimpanzee was more profitable than
the analysts!
Do-It-Yourself or Not - One of the first items you
need to decide is whether you will invest directly or
through an investment firm. If you are investing on
your own, then you will need to secure all of your own
screening information about the stocks that are of
interest. The investment company provides that
service for you.
You can choose to be an active investor with your
company, meaning you want to be included in stock
buying and selling decisions.

Philip Jubb
Panic attack cures
Senior Citizens Information Services

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Container Gardening Tips for Senior Citizens

Container Gardening Tips for Senior Citizens

Container gardens can create a natural sanctuary in a busy city street, along rooftops or on balconies. Senior Citizens can easily accentuate the welcoming look of a deck or patio with colourful pots of annuals, or fill window boxes with shrub roses or any number of small perennials. Whether Senior Citizens arrange pots in a group for a massed effect or highlight a smaller space with a single specimen, you'll be delighted with this simple way to create a garden.

Container gardening enables Senior Citizens to easily vary a color scheme, and as each plant finishes flowering, it can be replaced with another. Whether Senior Citizens choose to harmonize or contrast colors, make sure there is variety in the height of each plant. Think also of the shape and texture of the leaves. Tall strap-like leaves will give a good vertical background to low-growing, wide-leaved plants. Choose plants with a long flowering season, or have others of a different type ready to replace them as they finish blooming.

Experiment with creative containers. Senior Citizens might have an old porcelain bowl or copper urn to use, or perhaps you'd rather make something really modern with timber or tiles. If Senior Citizens decide to buy containers ready-made, terracotta pots look wonderful, but tend to absorb water. You don't want plants to dry out, so paint the interior of these pots with a special sealer available from hardware stores.

Cheaper plastic pots can also be painted on the outside with water-based paints for good effect. When purchasing pots, don't forget to buy matching saucers to catch the drips. This will save cement floors getting stained, or timber floors rotting.
Always use a good quality potting mix in your containers. This will ensure the best performance possible from plants.

If Senior Citizens have steps leading up to the front door, an attractive pot plant on each one will delight your visitors. Indoors, pots of plants or flowers help to create a cosy and welcoming atmosphere.

Decide ahead of time where pots are to be positioned, then buy plants that suit the situation. There is no point buying sun lovers for a shady position, they will not do well. Some plants also have really large roots, so they are best kept for the open garden.

If there is plenty of space at the front door, a group of potted plants off to one side will be more visually appealing than two similar plants placed each side. Unless they are spectacular, they will look rather boring.

Group the pots in odd numbers rather than even, and vary the height and type. To tie the group together, add large rocks that are similar in appearance and just slightly different in size. Three or five pots of the same type and color, but in different sizes also looks affective.

With a creative mind and some determination, Senior Citizens will soon have a container garden that will be the envy of friends and strangers alike.

Philip Jubb
Overweight Grand Kids
Senior Citizens Information Services

Friday, August 10, 2007

Senior Citizen Golf - Tips for Teeing Off.

Senior Citizen Golf - Tips for Teeing Off.

Once you have decided on your clubs, go to the first tee. You have the option of teeing your ball anywhere between, but not forward of, the markers. Don't forget that you can also tee it a maximum of two club-lengths behind the line of the markers.
Before you stick the peg in the ground take a good look at what is in front of you. And know what you are looking for. Almost every hole has more trouble on one side of the fairway than it does on the other. This trouble may be obvious: a string of white out-of-bounds stakes, a fence, or a pond. It may be more subtle: longer rough on one side than on the other, or a fairway trap on one side. It might be just a line of small trees, or a hidden ravine, or it might be one big tree with spreading branches out there in the rough about 220 or 230 yards from the tee.

Whatever the trouble is, make this your rule: Tee up your ball on the same side of the teeing ground as the trouble lies, and shoot away from it.

If the worst trouble lies on the right side, tee up on the right. Aim for the left center of the fairway and let fly. This way you will be at least starting your shot away from the danger zone. If, playing from the right side, you slice badly enough to bring the ball back into the trouble, you will still have two sources of satisfaction: The ball won't be as deep in the trouble and you will know that you at least tried intelligently to avoid it. There is always the chance, of course, that you will hit the ball across the fairway and into the rough on the opposite side, but then you have been caught by the lesser of the two evils and the advantage is still yours.

Something else in teeing your ball. Take advantage, if there is any to be taken, of any unevenness of the ground. Often there are little depressions on a tee. If there are in the area you choose, tee your ball on the forward edge of one. This will give you a slightly uphill lie, the lie most golfers like to play from. This is especially important if you are playing with the wind behind you. It will get your ball a little higher. But wherever you tee, be sure there are no obstructions of any kind behind the ball. These might be worm casts, which could deflect the club slightly as it is brought back, or they could be loose, dead grass, the movement of which might distract you. Whatever they are, get rid of them.

Another point to be sure of is that your feet are on level ground, that there is nothing under them which disturbs you, like a stick or a small stone or a clod of mud. Be sure also, especially in wet weather, that your feet aren't resting on muddy ground or loose earth from which they might slip.
All this may seem to be making mountains out of those worm casts we warned you of, but such observation, inspection, and reaction should become automatic. We assure you they are with the good player. Any little advantages which may exist are even more valuable to you than they are to the pro or the low-handicap player.

Handling the Wind
One of the great and variable hazards of golf is the wind. Few players actually like the wind, because it is an unsettling factor, though sometimes more imaginary than real. It is a fact, though, that an appreciable number of yards are lost when you hit straight into a wind, even though it is a light breeze, and just as many yards are gained when the wind is directly with the shot.

It follows, then, that in playing against the wind the ball should be kept as low as possible, where it is less exposed, and that when the wind is behind us we should get the ball up so the movement of air can exert a greater and longer effect. To get a low ball, play it back farther than normal, toward the center line between the feet if it is the tee shot, back farther for a pitching iron. Keep more weight on the left leg than normally and try to have your hands ahead of the ball at impact. It is also advisable, against the wind, to take one club stronger than you would use in still air, grip it shorter, and use a shorter but firmer swing. Most of these alterations should be reversed in a following wind.

The ball should be played a shade farther forward than usual to get it up quickly, and one club weaker than normal should be used. It, too, should be gripped shorter and swung with a shorter and firmer action. Let the weight movement and the hand action be normal; fooling with them is too dangerous.

Playing in a crosswind from the tee, the ball should be played from the same side the wind is blowing and played for the windward side of the fairway. This way you are
letting the wind help the ball just a little, instead of fighting it as you would be if you started the ball even slightly against it. This formula playing from the side of the tee the wind is blowing from holds in a quartering wind too, whether it is with or against you.

You will be faced with a slight conflict if the trouble is on one side of the fairway and the wind is coming from the other. When you find yourself in this dilemma, let the trouble be the determining factor.

One more thought while we are on the teeing ground. Most short (par 3) holes are played with an iron. When you play them, use a wooden tee. This is the only chance you ever have to get a perfect lie for an iron, so why not take it? But remember, the higher you tee the ball, the less distance you will get.
You can make this knowledge work for you. For instance, you may come to a hole which is a little short for the 5 iron you feel you should use but not short enough for a 6. Your feeling is that if you use the No. 6 you will have to hit the ball very hard to get there. In this case use the 5 but tee your ball a little higher and use your normal swing. The higher tee will take distance off the shot. You can vary the height of the tee in the wind, too, teeing a shade higher if you want the help of a following wind and lower if you want a low, boring shot into the wind.

Philip Jubb
Dog Grooming
Senior Citizens Information Services

Thursday, August 09, 2007

Senior Citizen Herb Gardening

Senior Citizen Herb Gardening

Herbs have been around since time immemorial and served different kinds of purposes. They have been used to treat illness and flavour cooking; they were even believed to have magical powers. Do you want to have your own herb garden? Here are a few ideas on how to establish an herb garden.

Plan your garden.

Consider the herbs you want to plant. Think about their types. Would you like annuals, biennials or perennials?

How much space will they occupy in your garden? If you want, you can purchase a book that can give you the right information on what specific plants you are planning to grow.

List or draw your garden on paper first. Separate the annuals from the perennials so when the time comes that you have to pull out the annuals, you won't be disturbing the perennials. Perennials can be planted on the edge of your garden so when it is time to till your garden they won't be in danger of getting dug up.

Another thing to remember is that you have to plant the tall ones at the back and the shorter ones in front. Also, provide your plants with enough space to grow. Proper position shall help you in this area.

If you would rather keep herbs out of your garden (and some are quite invasive) you could have herb pots. These are large containers with three or more outlets for the herbs. Fill the pot up to the first outlet and plant it before continuing on with the filling and planting process. Usually, the herb that requires the most water is planted in the bottom hole, while the variety that requires the least, goes in the highest hole.

Some Design Ideas

You can consider having a square herb bed. You can have your square bed divided into four by two paths crossing at mid point measuring 3 feet. You can border it with stone or brick. A wooden ladder may also do the trick. You can lay it down on your garden and plant your herbs between its rungs. You can also choose to have a wagon wheel bed. Planting here is like planting with the wooden ladders. Plant your herbs in between the wagon wheel's wedges.

Get Your Plants Growing

Of course, different plants have different needs, but many of them require alkaline soil. This is the reason why you have to determine the herbs you want to plant in the planning stage. This can more or less help you find out how you should care for your plants. If you germinate your herbs from seeds, remember to follow the directions on the packet for soil, watering and temperature.

Herbs are some of the easiest plants to grow. You just have to provide them with an effective drainage, sunlight, enough humidity or moisture and fertile soil. Even with just minimally meeting these requirements they will be bound produce a good harvest.

Philip Jubb
Beat Insomnia without pills
Senior Citizens Information Services
IT Services

Monday, August 06, 2007

Senior Citizens Health - Alzheimers Disease

Alzheimer's disease What is it?

Alzheimer's is a progressive, degenerative disease that destroys brain cells, causing death. The disease is the most common cause of dementia which is the deterioration of a person's mental faculties. The causes of Alzheimer's are still not known.

The symptoms of Alzheimer's disease.
Alzheimer's disease causes the loss of intellectual ability use of memory, thinking, reasoning, judgment, orientation, and concentration, and it can cause drastic changes in personality, mood and behavior. In its early stages, it has symptoms similar to those of depression such as withdrawal, apathy, loss of concentration and interest, memory failure, anxiety, agitation, and delusions. Alzheimer's is a disease and not a normal part of aging.

The diagnosis of Alzheimer's disease.
Alzheimer's is difficult to diagnose and is often misdiagnosed. It is made primarily from the symptoms reported by the affected person, by the family members and by a series of tests that evaluate a person's mental function. No brain scan or blood test can make the diagnosis, although the CT scan or MRI may show degeneration of brain tissue that is characteristic of the disease. An important step in diagnosing Alzheimer's is to rule out other possible causes of the symptoms which include depression, adverse effects from some medications, excessive consumption of alcohol, thyroid disorders, liver failure, kidney failure, a vitamin deficiency, bleeding inside the skull, and infections that can effect the brain.

There is NO treatment for Alzheimer's disease!
There is no cure for Alzheimer's disease. Treatment primarily involves caring for him or her and dealing with the worsening symptoms. Most people in the early stages live at home and are cared for by the family members.

What should the family of an Alzheimer's person consider?
Get a diagnosis early
Take care of legal and financial planning
Learn about the disease
Learn how to protect your loved one
Look for adult day-care programs, in home assistance, visiting nurses, and delivery of meals
Don't neglect your own needs
Talk to a support group to try to overcome the difficulty of grieving for a person who is still alive

Care at home.
In the living quarters hand bars (especially at the tub and toilet), ramps and other aids should also be installed. Occupational and physical therapy should emphasize using the effected limbs and to help improve walking, mobility, eating, dressing, toilet functions, avoiding bed ulcers and improving other basic needs.

Bear in mind Alzheimers is a one way ticket to misery for all concerned.


Saturday, August 04, 2007

Senior Citizens Gardening - The Soil


The chances are that you will not find a spot of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere upon your place. But all except the very worst of soils can be brought up to a very high degree of productiveness--especially such small areas as home vegetable gardens require. Large tracts of soil that are almost pure sand, and others so heavy and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated, have frequently been brought, in the course of only a few years, to where they yield annually tremendous crops on a commercial basis. So do not be discouraged about your soil.

Proper treatment of it is much more important, and a gardenpatch of average run down, --or "never-brought-up" soil--will produce much more for the energetic and careful gardener than the richest spot will grow under average methods of cultivation.

The ideal garden soil is a "rich, sandy loam." And the fact cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that description a bit, for right here we come to the first of the four all-important factors of gardening food. The others are cultivation, moisture and temperature.

"Rich" in the gardener's vocabulary means full of plant food; more than that--and this is a point of vital importance--it means full of plant food ready to be used at once, all prepared and spread out on the garden table, or rather where growing things can at once make use of it; or what we term, in one word, "available" plant food. Practically no soils in long inhabited communities remain naturally rich enough to produce big crops.

They are made rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by cultivation, which helps to change the raw plant food stored in the soil into available forms; and second, by fertilizing or adding plant food to the soil from outside sources.

"Sandy" in the sense here used, means a soil containing enough particles of sand so that water will pass through it without leaving it pasty and sticky a few days after a rain; "light" enough, as it is called, so that a handful, under ordinary conditions, will crumble and fall apart readily after being pressed in the hand. It is not necessary that the soil is sandy in appearance, but it should be friable.

"Loam: a rich, friable soil,". That hardly covers it, but it does describe it. It is soil in which the sand and clay are in proper proportions, so that neither greatly predominate, and usually dark in color, from cultivation and enrichment. Such a soil, even to the untrained eye, just naturally looks as if it would grow things. It is remarkable how quickly the whole physical appearance of a piece of well cultivated ground will change.

One instance came about last fall in one of my gardens, where a strip had contained onions for two years, and a little piece jutting off from the middle of this had been prepared for them for just one season. The rest had not received any extra fertilizing or cultivation. When the garden was plowed up in the fall, all three sections were as distinctly noticeable as though a fence separated them. And I know that next springs crop of carrots, before it is plowed under, will show the lines of demarcation just as plainly.

Philip Jubb

Friday, August 03, 2007

Senior Citizens Gardening - Planting Plan

To make the Planting Plan take a sheet of white paper and a ruler and mark off a space the shape of your garden--which should be rectangular if possible--using a scale of one-quarter or one-eighth inch to the foot. Rows fifty feet long will be found a convenient length for the average home garden. In a garden where many varieties of things are grown it will be best to run the rows the short way of the piece.

We will take a fifty-foot row for the purpose of illustration, though of course it can readily be changed in proportion where rows of that length cannot conveniently be made. In a very small garden it will be better to make the row, say, twenty-five feet long, the aim being always to keep the row a unit and have as few broken ones as possible, and still not to have to plant more of any one thing than will be needed.

In assigning space for the various vegetables things should be kept in mind in order to facilitate planting, replanting and cultivating the garden. Thesecan most quickly be realized by a glance at the plan. Crops that remain several years--rhubarb and asparagus--are kept at an end.
Next come those that will remain a whole season--parsnips, carrots, onions and the like. Finally, those that will be used for a succession of crops-- peas, lettuce, spinach; Tall-growing crops, like pole beans, are kept to the north of lower ones. In the plan the space given to each variety is allotted according to the proportion in which they are ordinarily used. If you have a special weakness for peas, or your mother-in-law an aversion to peppers, keep these tastes and similar ones in mind when laying out.

Do not leave the planning of your garden until you are ready to put the seeds in. Do it in January, as soon as you have received the New Year's catalogs and when you have time to study over them and look up your record of the previous year. Every hour spent on the plan will mean several hours saved in the garden.

The Planting Table is the next important system in the business of gardening, especially for the beginner. In it one can see at a glance all the details of the particular treatment each vegetable requires-- when to sow, how deep, how far apart the rows should be, etc.

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Senior Citizens - Tips for a Cheaper Retirement

Senior Citizens - Tips for a Cheaper Retirement

Everyone is looking for ways to save …here are a few ways to save when it comes to retirement.

Review your life insurance needs. The main reason to buy life insurance is to provide income for anyone who is dependent on you such as children or a spouse. If your kids are grown or you are divorced, you may want to reconsider making payments. You can also think about how much coverage you need.

Drive your car longer. Hold onto your car even after you have paid it off. There seems to be a desire to buy a new car for three or four years after you pay the loan off. Don’t give in! Drive the car for at least three or four years after the loan is paid off, but continue to make the monthly payments (which you have in your budget), to yourself. For instance, if your loan payment is $350 monthly, place that money into a savings account. That money will add up, especially if you keep it invested.

The average interest rate for a credit card today is 8 percent. If you are running a credit card balance and paying a high interest rate, cutting your rate, or getting the balance down will really save you some money. That money you can use to pay off your mortgage or invest for retirement.

Try to raise your Home and Car Insurance deductibles. You can reduce your annual premiums by 20 percent or so if you boost the deductibles. If you happen to have a low deductible and make a lot of claims, chances are pretty good your insurer will either boost your premium cost at your next renewal, to "get back" the money they paid out to you, or, even worse, they can choose to cancel your coverage. The bottom line is that you only want to make insurance claims for big-ticket problems. So boost those $250 and $500 deductibles to at least $1,000. If you have an old car, you should also look into whether you still need collision coverage. There's no need to pay for it if your car's market value - what your insurer would pay you should your car gets totaled - doesn't amount to much minus the deductible.

Any more tips for the Senior Citizens? Drop us a line or add a comment here

Philip Jubb